Booking

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General

Generally it’s under two hours per bike, however heavily soiled bikes can take longer and if there are areas we feel need a bit of extra work to get them looking better we’ll take the time to do it.
No, the treatment includes a full degrease and foam clean. We would appreciate though that if you’ve used something like a Scotoiler and it’s heavily gunged the rear end you try and clean the bulk of it off before bringing your bike in or let us know about it beforehand so we can allocate more time to it.
Absolutely not. A lot of the cleaners and wax’s on the market at the minute were originally designed for car use and have been adapted for bikes. Read the instructions on the bottles and you’ll generally find a lot of do’s and don’ts, not terribly bike friendly. We invested heavily last year in developing our own range of products designed specifically for use on bikes, this is our own brand Halo Smart range. With the limited time we have to process a bike these products had to be effective at doing the job while at the same time safe to use on any area of the bike regardless of whether it was metal, plastic, painted or the new Satin finishes that are now becoming popular. Because a lot of our work is on customers premises they also had to be fully environmentally friendly, biodegradable and leave no messy residue or damage plants, garden borders etc. Our degreasers for example are biodetergent based, they’re safe to use on any area of the bike and clean oil and dirt without stripping off grease from areas where it’s essential such as wheel bearings. We think you’ll be impressed when you see them in action.
Around 20% of the bikes we treat are straight out of the factory. Obviously we’re a little bias. but the overall opinion from our customers is it’s worth doing. Probably the biggest benefit is that the high pressure misting application we use ensures the ACF50 gets right into the nooks and crannies of the bike including the electrics and electronics, the same sort of areas that road spray, rain etc can get into. By their nature these are areas that are fairly inaccessible without a major strip down of the bike so 1) you don’t see any corrosion forming there and 2) you can’t get at it to treat it. The first you’ll be aware of it is when it manifests itself on a more visible area or when you start to get corrosion related problems.

In fairness, on a new bike that’s probably not going to show until it’s clocked a few miles on it (although riding on salt laden roads will accelerate the process quite dramatically), but our view is that prevention is better, and usually cheaper, than cure. Other benefits; you’ll see some comments where customer think their bikes look better than out of the showroom when we’ve finished, generally because we use our own high quality wax’s and of course the ACF50 is applied as per the manufacturers recommended process so you know it’s going to work to it’s best potential. We give all bikes the full treatment, most brand new bikes have a ‘transit’ wax coating applied to them. The first stage in our treatment process is a degrease and foam clean designed to remove this and any other wax, road dirt etc that’s on the bike. ACF50 uses polar bonding to adhere to metals so removing these coatings first gives it the best possible bonding to a clean surface with no barriers in the way.

Why not? just because the bike has a few miles on doesn’t mean it shouldn’t look it’s best or perform reliably, the treatment will at the very least stop any corrosion from getting worse and I think you’ll be surprised at how much better we can make it look. Electrics and electronics play a major role in the efficient running of any modern bike, one of the biggest benefits of ACF50 is that it can often give these a new lease of life by ejecting moisture and tackling any corrosion build up that’s occurred.
Ah, wouldn’t it be great if we answered this with a “yes you can”. But we’re not. ACF50 was originally a commercial product for commercial use, it was introduced to the retail market in a convenient form, i.e. aerosol cans and spray bottles, because 1) it had proved itself so it was a good opportunity to introduce it to new markets and 2) well, it hasn’t hurt the sales figures has it. If you’ve bought the product and tried using it yourself you quickly realise the limitations in applying it. For those who want to try the DIY approach we’ve put together an article on ACF50 which we hope will go some way to helping you. At the end of the day though, the single most effective way of applying ACF50 to ensure it gets where you need it is by atomising it through pressure spraying, and to ensure it goes onto ‘clean’ metal surfaces with nothing to stop it polar bonding effeciently, to do that takes a bit of training. When we take a new operator on they start by attending several venues with us so they can get an initial hands on and we can see they have what it takes to go to the next stage of training. That stage involves 3-4 days of fairly intensive one to one training in every aspect of the process. At the end of that, they can clean a bike like you wouldn’t believe and can safely and effectively use high pressure spray equipment and techniques around any bike. As one of our guys said, “it’s a bit like plastering, looks easy till you have a go yourself!”
We’ve seen several forum threads that suggest that ACF50 attracts dirt so your bike will look pretty grubby after a few miles. Fact is, neither ACF50 or any other coating ‘attracts’ dirt, that stuff is flung onto your bike while your riding and there’s not much you can do about it. Whether the dirt sticks there is entirely down to whether it lands on a tacky or sticky surface or a glossy one that it can’t adhere too properly. If the latter then any dirt can be easily rinsed or shampooed off, (which is what we recommend you do as frequently as you can). If left to accumulate then in all probability it will harden and bond to the surfaces and take a lot more effort to shift. ACF50 is designated an Ultra Thin Fluid Coating (UTFC), some people apply several hundred times too much to their bike. The surplus simply congeals and makes for the aforementioned sticky surface, properly applied this doesn’t happen.
Two or three good washes with a bike cleaner such as Autoglym Motorcycle Cleaner or Sdoc100 will remove it. But why would you want too? Corrosion doesn’t just happen during winter months. If you want to thoroughly clean your bike, polish it and spruce it up then great, but re-apply ACF50 afterwards. It won’t take away from it’s good looks and will keep you guarded against corrosion.
For the average mileage rider one treatment a year should be enough, on areas of your bike directly exposed to the elements and your washing and cleaning regime the coating will last a good two to three months, (and often longer) before it needs topping up. Topping up on these areas is a quick and easy DIY job. In the unexposed areas that are tucked out of the way the coating should last for at least 12 months. High mileage riders and those who expose their bikes more to the elements might want to consider two treatments a year. We do have a growing number of customers who bring their bikes in more than once a year, they just like the way we clean them and it saves them the hassle.
ACF50 is also a pretty effective lubricant so we go to great lengths to sheet off wheels and brakes before we begin spraying. Once the spraying is complete the sheetsare removed and we hand wipe these areas to ensure they get a coating without it going on either the tyres or brake pads and discs. When your bike is returned we strongly recommend that before you try getting your knee down or do an emergency stop you test to make sure no overspray or wipe has gone onto either the tyres or brake pads. With the application process we use if any has accidentally got on it can be quickly removed by treating the tyres like new ones and scrubbing them off and by burning it off the pads by gently applying them while riding.
We remove SatNavs and anything that has an LCD screen, simply because these screens only appreciate mild specialists cleaners on them. For the rest they’re perfectly ok to leave in place. During cleaning we avoid exposing electronic equipment to direct water spraying and the ACF50 misting process drives out any water or vapor that might have got in there.
Obviously thousands of bikers store their bikes for winter and mostly without too many ill effects so we won’t try to scaremonger you into thinking it’s a ‘must have’ treatment. Our own opinion and that of many of our customers is that it won’t hurt, as we’ve said earlier, prevention is better, and cheaper, than cure. We let it be your call.

Aftercare

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